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Rleog last won the day on July 10 2018

Rleog had the most liked content!

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  1. Spotted at the back of long term parking in Oakridge, Oregon, just prior to the start of the Cycle Oregon Classic ride (CycleOregon.com). ........ A classy, high quality, well built RV ...... parked next to an Airstream.
  2. I just installed mine an hour ago. Thanks for this suggestion.
  3. Sherry hit the ‘ole nail on the head (and probably should have hit my head with the hammer). The original outlet was faulty. The replacement (Leviton) was good. The replacer was faulty. Line and Load are arranged differently by these two manufacturers, as shown in the picture above. Note that the green ground terminals are arranged in the same relative position, which can lead to further confusion. Sherry, I would drink a toast in your honor but, as you know, they don’t allow alcohol at Ft DeSoto Park. Thank you to all who attempted to help through this thread.
  4. Thanks for the suggestion, Mike and Carol. I systematically went through all connections that I could view and reach, notably the bus bar and fuse box. I couldn’t find anything loose or amiss. Unfortunately the problem persists. We’re currently at Ft DeSoto Park near St Petersburg, FL, for a two week stay. It’s a place that should have been on the top ten RV parks to visit in Florida, beautiful with spacious sites. Lots of passers by are impressed with the Oliver and stop to chat. So far no one has had a solution for this electrical issue.
  5. No luck after changing the GFCI. I used the better module that HD had in stock, the Leviton GFCI model GFNT1-RW, 15A-125V. The original unit has two line inputs (4 wires, 2 black, 2 white), and 1 load output (2 wires, 1 black wire, 1 white wire). There is also a bare copper ground wire attached to the green terminal on the bottom of the unit. I wired the new unit precisely the way the original unit was wired. This outlet had worked fine for the 1 3/4 years that I’ve had the trailer, so the original wiring must have been correct. When I restored power, a green diode on the front of the unit illuminated (there are both green and red diodes) but there is no power from the outlets. None of the other outlets have A/C power (kitchen, outlet above TV), the microwave has no power but the refrigerator continues to function on A/C. All of the USB outlets continue to function. All blade fuses are functional and no circuit breaker is tripped. Overland, the YouTube video was informative and reinforced that I had wired the unit correctly. Still stumped.
  6. Thanks LandRover, Overland and John for the quick replies. One thing that I found odd about this was that the outlets near the TV and the kitchen countertop both worked for about a day before they stopped functioning. The problem then became a real crisis because the Keurig could no longer be used! I unscrewed the GFI outlet to look at the wiring. All wires are securely fastened to the screw terminals. I purchased a new GFI outlet at HD yesterday evening. That’s today’s project. Thanks
  7. The dinette Alternating Current receptacle GFI tripped when I tried to use it yesterday. The red diode on the receptacle illuminated but the reset button would not allow it to reset and resume function. I can depress the reset button fully but it does not reset; red diode stays illuminated. No circuit breaker or fuse is tripped or blown. From when this happened yesterday I was still able to use the A/C receptacles in the stove area and above the TV, but this afternoon all A/C outlets, including the outside curbside outlet, stopped working. Again, no fuse is blown. The refrigerator and air conditioner still function on A/C. Stumped.
  8. Hi John Please excuse my slow response. I don’t check in here regularly. A and B: I have 2017 chassis 244, which does not have the EZ Lube spindle connectors that would allow a bearing “flush” with fresh grease. I formerly owned a Casita that did have the EZ Lube design. I think that the 2018 Oliver models do not have the EZ Lube spindles. C. Backing plates on my wheels have two oblong openings at the bottom that are used for adjusting the brake shoe “star” cluster. I don’t think that you can visualize the shoe wear through these holes. There is a small circular hole (~1 cm diameter) at the top of the backing plate. I’m not sure if this can be used to visualize the brake shoe wear either. Maybe someone else can clarify. D. In the wheel bearing lubrication section of the Oliver manual, no mention is made of replacing the inner bearing seal if the hub is removed. E. I repacked my bearings recently at nearly 10,000 miles and noticed no uneven wear on any of the bearings or spindles. Similarly, there was no excessive or uneven wear on any of the brake shoes. Hope this helps, Bob G
  9. Where did you purchase the metal carrier/basket? I see a basket with solid metal sides in the Oliver add on section.
  10. Thanks for documenting this potential problem. I'm monitoring wheel temperatures with the type of infrared thermometer that you recommended and so far (8000 miles) have only had one unrelated problem. I'll be thoroughly going over the brake adjusters when I repack the wheel bearings in another 2000 miles, likely in October. Bob G.
  11. A couple of questions. What's the towing capacity of your Land Cruiser, and do you have an engine oil temp gauge (if so, what were the temps)? Bob G.
  12. Thanks, guys. Here's what I found: CE4340AC-C134-48BE-B5C3-1A9F901862EC Note the black weight attached to a cord that assists the extendable faucet nozzle when it retracts back into the faucet. This weight swings like a pendulum within the space behind the drawers and likely smacked my fridge plug enough times that it eventually knocked it out of the electrical socket. Fridge works fine on AC once it's plugged in. Duh. I moved the "pendulum" to the other side of the sink drain pipes and wrapped it in a spongy foam material. Sad that it took me this long to figure this out but I mistakenly assumed that I was getting power to the fridge because the front diodes all lit up. I was getting power....D.C. Power. Bob G
  13. I have a 2017 LE II, chassis 244, with the Dometic RM2454 fridge. For a couple of months, in use for perhaps two weeks, the fridge worked on AC, then one day switched to gas and could not be restarted on AC. I used the fridge last fall (one week) and this past March (3 weeks) on gas because it would not startup with AC power. I've checked the 3 A and 5 A AC fuses, as well as the 30 A DC fuse; they're all fine. The power cord at the rear of the fridge passes through a partition/wall at the left of the fridge rear, so I cannot view the power cord connection to an electrical outlet. Pulling out the kitchen counter drawers does not give a view of the connection either. Any suggestions about how to go forward in troubleshooting this? Bob G.
  14. John Thanks for taking the time to comprehensively document this potential problem. I don't think that I have this problem because the trailer seems to be braking evenly. I'll be doing the 6000 K bearing service soon and will then have a close look at the brake assemblies and wiring. If my brake controller wires are the same as yours I'll likely change them out also, following your well illustrated examples. Bob G.
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