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KenB last won the day on August 5 2019

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  1. My first thought is the sail switch has some fibers or hair stuck to it. I was going to pop the cover off and take a picture of the location for you, but there are eight screws holding the cover on and it’ll be dark before I find the tools get it apart. My furnace was acting similar this March while camping in Moab, Utah. After an internet search I took out the sail switch in the campground (while it was snowing) and found a few long fibers hanging off of it. Pulled the fibers off, reinstalled, and the furnace fired back up. I found that it takes VERY little interference to affect the proper operation of this microswitch. Pull the cover, look for two wires leading to the back of a micro switch. I think it’s on the lower left side looking in at the furnace from the outside. Remove the micro switch with its long metal operating arm and clean it off. Make sure it’s switching smoothly. Be careful removing and replacing so you don’t bend the sail part Good luck. HTH. Ken.
  2. As we were packing up our Elite II today (hull #351) to leave from Ridgway State Park, just north of Ouray, CO, the owner of hull #2 rolled up in his pickup the say Hi. He said that he first saw his eventual trailer (hull #2) when Jim Oliver was camping in it at Quartsite. He later visited the factory and bought the exact trailer (hull #2) as a demo unit from Jim. When he went back to the factory in the early days for a few issues, he said that Jim would ask him to stay at his house as a guest while waiting for the work to be completed. It sounds like he lived in it for a few years when he first bought in, now it’s just for recreation. I asked if he’d had any issues I should look for and couldn’t think of anything except a leaking double pain window seal. He was very nice and look forward to meeting him on the road again. It sounded like he spent little if any time on a computer and won’t stubble on this thread. I thought I’d add to the story by letting everyone know hull #2 is still in service.
  3. The sculptures are interesting, but the two ends of the hi-way are tough points to work into a trip. There isn’t much of a draw to the area, hence the construction of the sculptures to draw tourists off of the freeway. I was checking out pheasant hunting spots for a fall hunting trip when we drove it last summer. Stopped to look at these birds too.
  4. I’m not participating in that event. This one for the 200 series. It’s goes Wednesday pm to Saturday pm. +60 200 series LC will be there. Check out ih8mud.com for +40 pages of discussion. It’s based out of Ouray this year. It’s my first organized LC event. We’ll see how it goes. Ken
  5. Not really on topic, but Ouray was mentioned in the title. I’m currently in the Ouray area for the week with our Elite II to attend a Land Cruiser event. Last night we camped in the Denver area. On our way here today we came across on I70. In Copper Mountain we had our first ever Oliver sighting! Someone was driving across the overpass heading south as we were heading west. It all happened too quick to see the tow vehicle or colors of anything. About the only thing I noticed is that I think there were dual awnings. You’d think that in maybe 8k miles of towing our Oliver in the past year we’d see more than just a passing glimpse of just one. Tonight at the state park there are three Casitsas and one Escape in our loop, plus myself. Practically a mini rally.
  6. I recently called Andersen about getting a new friction cone. They sent one out immediately with few questions. The one year old friction cone was white, the newest version they just sent me is light blue. One of the videos on their website says it’s acceptable for the friction material to start protruding out the top, but should be replaced if it exceeds 3/8”. Mine was sticking out 1/2”. Really the only question they asked was what is the color of the whale tail. Mine is silver. I see John’s is black. Our trailer has maybe 10k miles on it. I haven’t replaced the friction material yet. I had no complaints about the white cone (other than it squirting out the top), hopefully the blue won’t be a step backwards. Hth, Ken
  7. I didn’t use screen. I used a block of open cell foam roughly 3 inches cubed that was a scrap from a large fish tank filter. I believe the pores are small enough to stop the gnats, but air still passes through easily. I trimmed it until it was a snug fit in the stack pipe. HTH, Ken
  8. I climbed up on mine last week to do this same job. There is just one Philips screw holding the vent cap in place. Very easy to remove and replace. Add your screen to the top of the stack and replace the cover. Done. I was prepared for much worse. HTH. Ken
  9. I bought two of the same fan sometime this winter. They are currently sitting out in the camper. Occasionally I hold them up to the wall, try different mounting spots/orientations, and then try to work up the gumption to drill new holes into the fiberglass. Still hasn’t happened. Your location is one of my prime choices. Seeing the base mounted perpendicular to the side wall makes sense. You can easily see the controls and LEDs in that orientation. My plan was to mount it with through bolts using the two counter sunk holes provided and a backing plate on the other side. Your six rivets are not part of the factory mounting suggestion, but should be good insurance against coming loose while the trailer bounces down the road. I wonder which is worse for loosening mounted fixtures like this fan, pounding waves in a boat, or bumpy roads? Thanks for the ideas. Ken
  10. I had a base model Parkit360 that I’d bought off of Craig’s list for part of a season. It wouldn’t handle the 3500 lb trailer I had at the time. Since I knew we were getting an Elite II soon, I put it back on Craig’s list and sold it again. No way it would have handled the 5000 lb + of the new trailer. It was far from the effortless hookup and moving around they show on the videos. Now I have a front mounted hitch and all is well and for far less money too. HTH, Ken
  11. I have the same front mount reciever that you’re looking at mounted on the front of my ‘13 Land Cruiser. Or I should say it was. I took it off before driving to Moab last week with the Land Cruiser and the Oliver. Later this week I’ll put the front reciever back on so I can easily back my LE II back into its winter storage spot for another month or two. Its great for moving the trailer around the yard. The rise on my drawbar might be even taller than the one you show. No issues, I’m just glad it goes on and off easily. It hangs pretty low. Fine for pavement, but for even mild off road it’s too low. Can’t comment on changing the oil with it in place, but that might be an issue. Just moving the trailer around your yard or a campsite? The hitch and drawbar you show will be fine.
  12. We spend a few weeks each summer at Minnesota State Parks. They have a rule to head off at least some of the reservation nonsense. You MUST occupy your site on the first night of your reservation in Minnesota State Parks. There is no ability to change the first date of your reservation once it is made. If you try to change the first day, or don't show up the first day, the whole reservation is cancelled with a loss of funds. This is key to stop one type of gaming of the reservation system. For those who understand why this detail makes a difference can get a site of their choice and date of their choice before many others. I want to acknowledge that this happens, but don't want to document a how-to for those who don't understand. It'll just make it worse. HTH, Ken
  13. With a bunch of motorcycles in my garage (currently down to seven) and a couple of bicycles, I have some experience maintaining control cables and using the cable lubricating device you mention. Tri-flow aerosol is usually the preferred lubricant. WD40 should be avoided as it eventually dries into a hard varnish. If the inner cable is kinked or the outer is smashed, a replacement will be necessary. The cable lube device is dependent on the outer cable sheath being intact the whole length. A nick in the sheath allows the lubricant to take the path of least resistance and the whole cable doesn’t get lubed. Make sure lubricant comes out the far end. Start at the highest end. It makes a mess. Have some rags ready. HTH. Ken.
  14. I had a parkit360 that I bought and later sold for same money on Craig’s list. Can’t remember what model it was, but it couldn’t hardly move my old 3,500 lb hybrid trailer on the slight incline in my driveway, so I thought I might as well sell it off. It wasn’t going to have a chance with our new Elite II. After selling the Parkit360 I bought a front mount hitch for our 2013 Land Cruiser. It was an easy install that took only about 30 minutes. Inexpensive too, barely over $100. The winter storage spot I have for our Oliver is up a steep driveway, around the side of the garage, through another bend, before ending under a carport attached to an outbuilding. This fall was the first time I used a front mount hitch to put the Oliver to bed for the winter. My son was spotting from the top of a ladder to make sure I didn’t hit anything on the roof of the Oliver on the underside of the carport. My father and wife were watching the sides of the camper and the building since my view from behind the wheel is obviously very obstructed. It didn’t take long to move the camper into position, probably the quickest I’ve ever done in the 14 years I parked various campers in the same spot. I did get out a few times to look at the progress with my own eyes. All three of the spotters kept giving me the thumbs up, so I just kept moving. Positioning the trailer around the garage, into the back yard, and under the carport was EASY with the front hitch. The fit is so tight, but was so under control, that I’m going to need to unscrew the lightbulbs that hang down from the carport ceiling so I don’t break them off on the top of the Oliver on the way out. My spotters guided me around them on the way in. Everything was that close. And all easily done with the front hitch on the Land Cruiser. Unfortunately the front hitch hangs down so low I’m going to need to temporarily remove it for two 4x4 trips planned to Utah and Colorado this year. I’m sure it’ll drag when drving off improved roads. HTH, Ken
  15. According to the manufactures website, the inverter draws <.8 A at no load. For easy math lets call it a 1 Amp hour draw or a 10W idle load. Leave it on constantly and it's going to draw 24 Amp hours per day just doing nothing. What is the usable Amp hour capacity on an Elite I battery bank? I'm not sure. With two six volt AGM batteries I believe it would be 200 usable Amp hours. If that's true (and it could be wrong) leaving the inverter on will use up the usable capacity of the batteries in eight days. On the ninth day you'd be drawing down the batteries lower than designed and potentially start damaging them. Get in the habit of turning off the inverter when you're not using it. You might avoid damaging the batteries by accidentally over discharging them. HTH, Ken
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