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Townesw

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Townesw last won the day on May 10 2019

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  1. They are on our 2018 LE2 also. Only you got a lot more. It’s sealant over these screws.
  2. Remove the three left kitchen drawers. Remove the plywood panel at the back. See picture for location of the plug. Before you put everything back together move the weighted sink hose so that it is between the back of the drawers and the back wall of the cabinet.
  3. Was the water under your refrigerator area coming from the fresh water tank overflow or from the refrigerator drain? If coming from the refrigerator drain, was it coming out of the tube or from a gap between the tube and the hull?
  4. I found the thread on this forum that mentions the split fitting under the basement floor. https://olivertraveltrailers.com/topic/city-water-connection/#post-161513
  5. My overflow tube clamp was loose. The fellows at the factory added this port But if I had it to do over I would have cut the hole myself and made it larger. I’ve got some measurements to make the job less scary if you ever need to cut the hole.
  6. There has been a thread regarding a split coupling that will create the leak from the rear street side drain you are describing Hobo. I can not find it on this forum (edit: I found it - see my post below) but I am sure it was on the Facebook page. Look for the post by Tom Cagle on August 12 at 3:38pm on the Facebook Oliver Owners Group.
  7. I created this post in response to a request for help on an Atwood furnace some time ago. Don’t know if the Suburban is similar. https://olivertraveltrailers.com/topic/need-help-in-a-really-cool-place-but-no-heat/#post-148492
  8. A lock in the coupler lever is not needed. The wire bail is easily sprung out of the holes.
  9. We’ve had #313 since March 2018 and the propane detector has never gone off. I think Overland may be correct:
  10. Overland, I’m logged in also and can’t see the classifieds.
  11. Is anyone else having problems with the forum? It won’t let me logout. If I try to look at the classifieds I get Error 404. The posts don’t “look” the same. I tried to post this same question yesterday and couldn’t. I am using an iPhone.
  12. Thanks Mountainoliver. That’s the best method I’ve seen. Are those 1/2 inch Grade 8 bolts?
  13. Dave, I also like what you said about hook attachment to tow vehicle in this thread https://olivertraveltrailers.com/topic/newby-question-hammerlocks-towing-hooks-ford-f150/#post-182187 I’m interested in how you are attaching the chains to your trailer. SAE document J684 states that EACH component be rated, in our case (Class 4), to the GVWR of the trailer. The clevises now used have a WLL of 1.5T or 3000 lbs and I’m looking for a way to secure EACH chain to the trailer with a device rated for at least 6000 lbs. With the hooks (to fit a 2500HD hitch) and chain that I intend to use, the chain to trailer attachment will be by far the weakest part of the system. I understand that WLL is “approximately” 1/3 of the break strength but all we have to go on is what is actually stamped on the device.
  14. Are those hooks being held by magnets? Need more info please on how you have those chains secured to the tongue.
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