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Geronimo John

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Geronimo John last won the day on March 30 2019

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  1. John and Cheryl: Welcome to the best source of info on the planet for Oliver Trailers! A follow-up to the drain lines and water system. Some of us owners simply don't use the high pressure water system as a supply to our trailers. Pressure surges from the city water main or well pump can be an issue. Instead, we fill our Oliver fresh water tank and use the pump to provide water for our needs. When filling the fresh water tank, you want to monitor the tank fill level. Flow water at a reasonably fast rate until reaching a level such as 75% full. Then significantly slow down the water flow rate until you reach something such as 90% full. Then slow it down further until you see water coming from the tank overflow tube located at the refrigerator area (To the rear of the entry steps). When you see overflow there, shut off the water from the city/well. This process minimizes the potential for water system problems. It would be good to know the following: How fast is the water leaking out of the trailer weeps? Have you tried to disconnect from the city/well pump and see if the leak stops. If you fill the fresh water tank, does the leak return? Does it return just sitting there or does it return when using the pump? Geronimo John
  2. For those with the night stand hatch option benefit by opening the hatch under extreme cold weather? For those without the hatch, would removing the street side twin mattress aft end would have the same effect?
  3. Overland: I REALLY like your pole selection. They are short for travel, are very light and quite strong. But at $40 each for two of the 8 ' model, the cost is quite high. I am wondering if other owners have a similar but more cost conscious approach that are also small, light and strong?
  4. I note from the pictures that you are in several of the pictures, more than one trailer set-up is not using the side bars that clip back to the side of Ollie and are designed to reinforce the awning. Seems odd? Often we find ourselves in a rain situation. I like having a near dry entry and also sheltering of the windows as well. But don't like leaving the awning out while we are gone for many hours. Our solution is to extend the awning out about 1/3, and using 550 para-cord lines from the leading edge to dead weights below the ends of the awning. One of my dead weights is the Anderson hitch. The other is a milk crate loaded with "local" rocks. Advantage is no additional weight to haul around as we have always found local rocks and the hitch is always with us. I suspect we all have other items that meet that criterion. For example a 5 gallon collapsible water container that we use for boon-docking, or even an ice chest filled with water will work equally. I tie the lines in such a manner so as to easily be able to adjust them when we extend the awning as the need arises. I am comfortable leaving our awning extended out to only about a third or so even in strong winds. Doing so keeps our entry nearly dry, our chairs stay reasonably dry. I like the idea of using the poles to provide a secondary measure of down force resistances that our current setup does not address. Especially if they were collapsible so that we can easily store them in the basement. Painters Poles? Could you please share a link to them?
  5. I also use the Honda EU2200i. Easily runs the A/C as above. In addition to the above power management issues (Hair Dryer, Microwave, etc.) you'll also need to be be aware of the load you charger can pull if your batteries are low on charge. This impacts us rarely, but is something you can manage around. The two loads are for the A /C load (lower one) and the internal heat strips for the heat that can be used in the A/C unit to heat Ollie. Personally, I prefer to use a small 1500 watt electric heater vs. the larger heat strips in the A/C unit. Unless you must have the 3000 for special medical or must run a/c all the time, the Honda EU2200 is the unit of choice for the vast majority of Ollie II owners.
  6. Yea Scuba, I would agree. Possibly a heavy skillet pulled off the burner to cool. Could radiate enough heat back to the fiberglass just 3/16" below the rim of the cook top.
  7. I'm a bit budget conscious and like the 2 X 6 cut offs to reduce the travel needed of the three jacks and for leveling. Cut a bunch of them out of treated lumber to fill a milk crate. I think I have two stacks of 6 in mine. I carry them in a milk crate up front in the aluminum box. I recommend the very heavy rubber wheel chocks from Harbor Freight. They are inexpensive and are very durable, and fit in front of the milk crate. Many of use use the jacks to level Ollie. Only need IMHO for under wheel blocking is on sloping ground so I don't carry any. At times on reasonable slopes the high side may only have a block and the low side a bunch with the low side wheels not loaded much at all. Then raise the low side up to take up the extra slack in height and then run the two jacks together to lift together keeping the trailer sort of level. This avoids some of the twisting the frame. For soft ground, to reduce sinking I use two 2 X 6's laid side to side, then stack more under the jacks at a 90 degree angle single file. I do the same up front at times.
  8. I agree with the above comments. Out of Dallas I saw an Air Stream with SEVERE hail damage. But its solar panels were not damaged. Also, even if they were damaged, they are very easy to order out and DYI replacement yourself. Can't say the same thing for that poor Air Stream......
  9. @Try2Relax: I agree on the Jacks. My practice is to leave Ollie attached to my tug. I make sure it is in park and the truck emergency brake is set and exit the vehicle and LOCK IT. I then take my chocks and put them on the tug. By having the bulldog fully engaged, and my tug chocked, I know that the trailer/Tug are NOT going to move. I then use both of my rear trailer jacks to raise the trailer in a level manner. Other than violate the current owner's manual on this topic, do you see any other "Gotcha's" that I may be missing? Thank you,
  10. VALVES-Combined-Water-Systems-Diagrams.pdf Sure. Attached is a single page .pdf of Cedar Forks three files. Makes for a nice one sheet reference.
  11. Hobo: I remember it by thinking about how I OPEN the dump valves (Gray and Black). They have to be pulled out, else wise you can't close the hatch. Likewise you have to pull out the handle by the toilet for the valve to be open to allow your feet to stay dry. Or, you can just wash socks. :-) Have fun.
  12. VALVES-Combined-Water-Systems-Diagrams2.docx
  13. ???? Why does my attachment say "delete" behind it? VALVES-Combined-Water-Systems-Diagrams1.docx
  14. Cedar Forks: Your three files really simplify our understanding of the water systems in my 2018 Olive Elite II. I hope that you don't mind, but I combined the three files and reformatted them a bit to fit on one page. Geronimo John Note: My eagle eyed wife corrected my misspelling for Boondocking... VALVES-Combined-Water-Systems-Diagrams-1.docx
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