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RnA last won the day on May 12 2019

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  1. Congrats! If GM only had a referral program like Oliver's... - Randy
  2. JD, Thanks for all of the information and the links. I certainly appreciate you taking the time to put your thoughts down on the forum. You provided a lot of areas for me to consider as I make a selection. -Randy
  3. KWR, You won't regret it. I initially towed the Ollie with a Tundra 5.7. The 2500HD Duramax is a beast and tows SO much better than the Tundra. It's not just the huge power increase but better braking and much better in the mountains going both up and down switch backs. No more tail wagging the dog, the dog's in charge now! - Randy
  4. Tom, Sure thing. I have sent some questions into Banks Power to better understand the differences (power increases, fuel economy, exhaust discharge temperatures and exit flow field) of the 4 inch versus 5 inch Monster Exhausts. I plan to order one of those unless a better recommendation comes up. Then I've just got to get the courage up to cut through my tailpipe! - Randy
  5. JD, I am not committed to getting the RockStar over another brand. The "heat shield" on the RockStar got my attention and sent me down the path of looking at alternatives for a side discharge on the exhaust. I love everything about the truck except that darn exhaust pipe. I value your input on the design flaws you saw in the RockStar and what swayed you to purchase the Rock Tamers. With the distance the Ollie sits behind the exhaust discharge I doubt there is a problem with damaging the trailer but figured best to throw it out to the forum to see if anyone has noticed any ill effects of the exhaust impinging on the trailer. Thanks, Randy
  6. About the only thing I have not liked about my 2500HD Duramax is the BIG exhaust pipe sticking out the back. I think the Ford PowerStroke side exhaust is much better looking. I want to add a full width rock guard across the back of the truck. When looking at the available rock guards I came across the RockStar. The RockStar guards have a metal heat shield for the GM Duramax exhaust. Credit: https://www.agricover.com/rockstar/#gallery I did't like the idea of a "bandaid" solution so looked around for an exhaust that would exit to the side of the truck. The BanksPower Monster Exhaust fit the bill. Banks as well as some of the "reviews" on the Banks site claim the heat from the Duramax regen cycle can discolor or even melt the fiberglass on some trailers. Has anyone had problems with this or has anyone taken temperature measurements on the trailer during a regen cycle? https://www.bankspower.com/i-2653-48947-monster-exhaust-system-4-inch-single-exit-chrome-tip-with-coolcuff-2017-19-chevy-6-6l-l5p-from-banks-power.html#!submodel%3D6.6L%20DIESEL%7C%7Cmodel%3DSIERRA%202500%20HD%7C%7Cmake%3DGMC%7C%7Cyear%3D2018 I have not had any problems yet. I intend to install the Banks Exhaust before my next trip but I'm open to other ideas for exhaust pipes. Thanks, - Randy
  7. Thanks Townesw. Great info sheet from a great tool manufacturer. Per their sheet you should store the tool at “the lowest setting”. I don’t know if any go as low as zero. I store mine at the lowest setting on the wrench of 20lb-ft. - Randy
  8. Spike, You probably already know this but I won't ASSUME you do. Tighten the lug nuts by going back and forth from one side of the wheel to the other (tightening the next lug across the axle). Do not tighten in circular order around the wheel. - Randy
  9. Spike, No success with the pdf right now. Here's what Jason Posted a couple of years ago. Same as what is on the pdf. """""""""""""""""""""""""""""""""""""""""""""""""""""""""""""""""""""""""""""""""""""""" March 10, 2017 at 12:34 pm #46879 JEssaryKeymaster@essary17 TORQUE SPECS WHEEL LUG NUTS STAGE 1: 90 LBS STAGE 2: 110 LBS STAGE 3: 120 LBS BULLDOG COUPLER: 80 LBS AXLE/U-BOLTS: 70 LBS SHACKLE BOLTS: 40 LBS ---------------- Jason Essary Service Manager Oliver Travel Trailer Sales, Inc. 866-205-2621 """"""""""""""""""""""""""""""""""""""""""""""""" For lug nuts, go around each with torque wrench set to stage 1, then do all nuts to stage 2 and finally do all nuts to stage 3. For periodic checks I just use stage 3. The reason to tighten incrementally is to not warp the wheel. - Randy
  10. 1. I use a 1/2" drive with 6" extension. The extension lets you get the wrench out past the sidewall of the tire. A shorter extension may work but I'd have to check. You want at least 150 lb-ft limit. If you got the socket / lug nut wrench that came with my Ollie, you can use the appropriate sized socket in the kit with the 6 inch extension. There are 3 basic types: 1.) Manual with a dial (least accurate and least precise). Accuracy is important to ensure you are getting the right load on a given lug. Precision is important to ensure the loads are consistent from lug to lug. 2.) Pur mechanical. On these you set the target torque value (make sure you are reading the scale for lb-ft!) As you tighten the bolt you will feel a very distinct "click" when the torque value is reached. 3.) Mechanical electrical have digital readouts. I have type 2 and it works fine. Get a good case to put it in. It is important to protect it from being damaged or knock out of calibration. 2. See attached PDF. Oliver publishes these values. They may be different for different configurations. The site may have some other values. 3. After a wheel change I torque at 20/ 50 and 100 miles. Yes I do stop, get out with my torque wrench and check the lug nuts. I also check when I start out on a trip and usually before I leave the campground for the next site. I don't check every stop however try to do a walk around the trailer and truck at every stop which includes a good look at the lug nuts to see if any are backing off. I have discovered loose lug nuts on my truck by looking. 4. See PDF. I'm sure there are more though. I check the spare tire nut occasionally and the wing nut hold down the propane tanks. I probably should check the jack bolts once or twice a year. 5. Don't use lubricants on the lugs. If you ever have to use liquid wrench or such to get a rusty lug nut off, the lug nut must be thoroughly cleaned of lubricant. If lubricant is on the lug when the torque is set you will over-torque the lug. The torque values are based on the amount of friction between the threads of the nut and the lug. If lubricant is added the friction becomes significantly reduced to reach the torque value. The bolt "yields" or stretches and becomes much weaker. If you over torque a lug, it should be replaced. Not that expensive considering the amount of damage a failure can cause. Hope that helps, - Randy Olliver-LE2-Torque-Specs.pdf
  11. Vector, If you can get to the trailer before they work on it you may want to check the torque on the other side. Not definitive that left and right would have been the same or that the wheels were not subject to lateral loads that could have altered the loading on the lugs. It could prove useful though. I would start around 70 lb-ft and try each lug to see if you get movement. Then just add 10 lb-ft each cycle until max. - Randy
  12. When lug nuts are torqued the aluminum creeps under compression of the lug nut. This lowers the torque on the lug nut. Thus the requirement to re-torque a couple of times after an aluminum wheel is reinstalled. I have had multiple instances of both under and over torque on the lug nuts of my cars and trucks. The most recent being last summer when I had my Tundra checked and serviced at the Toyota dealer before heading to TN for my Ollie. About 100 miles into the trip the front end started shimmying real bad. About 1/2 of the lug nuts were loose. Some were not even on finger tight. Now I check the torque whenever I get a vehicle out of the shop. On the trailer coming out of the shop at Oliver I would hope that it wouldn’t be required. However you still need to check and reset torque periodically. - Randy
  13. One of the big tell-tales will be the wear pattern folks are experiencing after running a significant number miles with a certain psi and trailer weight. Too high pressure and the middle of the tread will show more wear. Too low pressure and the outsides of the tread will wear faster. Anyone out there have some info to share? - Randy
  14. I have tried to replace the eyebrow and main boards independently before. In three different cases it did not work. My understanding from reading on one of the parts suppliers sites is that the boards must be replaced in a matched set. The reason for this is the firmware within the boards must be compatible for them to communicate properly. If the firmware is different all sorts of weird things can happen both in the indicator lights and function of the refrigerator. Glad to see it's fixed. Are you still having issues with the water heater? - Randy
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