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topgun2

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topgun2 last won the day on September 10 2019

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  1. If you haven't tried turning the fridge off, waiting for 15 seconds or so and then turn it back on - try that. Of course I assume that other AC driven things are working when you tried the fridge on AC. Bill
  2. Bobfirst - Given what you said about the connections, green light, etc. I'd wait 'till Monday and give the Service Department a call. Certainly they can give you the details regarding specs and warranty and possibly other trouble shooting ideas. Bill
  3. Has anyone noticed the new wheels being used on the 2020 models - click on "Travel Trailers" in the big blue banner at the top. I also understand that there will be a different lighting setup on the interior with only one switch panel and "touch" lights but I have not seen a picture of this yet. Bill
  4. Nice job on those gutters over the windows!
  5. Make sure you get gas well before getting anywhere near either Park. If you're going toward West Yellowstone, even Big Sky is too late to escape the 30 to 50 cents per gallon higher price. Bill
  6. I know that WiFi Ranger does software updates. About three years ago I was camped in some commercial RV park and saw a notice for a software update on my WiFi Ranger. Without thinking I simply clicked on the update and went to bed. The next morning my WiFi Ranger would not work. Long story, short - when you see that message to not turn off your device while an update takes place - obey it! During the download, the campground's wifi connection was lost which caused a total software failure in the Ranger. Yes, I know that one would think that they would/could have prevented that, but they didn't. The good news is that with the great help of the Service guys at Oliver, WiFi Ranger replaced the unit under warranty. Bill
  7. Carl - two things: 1. There is a "snap ring" on the bottom of the ball assembly which is what stops it from pulling out of the housing when you lift the trailer/TV in order to get slack in the chains for removal/installation of the whaletail. If that nap ring has bent or broken then the ball assembly could lift too far out of the housing causing the problem you describe. Check that snap ring! 2. You can use the "lug wrench" that Oliver gave you with the camper (or a breaker bar or virtually anything with a 5/8 inch end on it) to move the bottom end of the ball housing into the position you need for the whaletail. Hope this helps. Bill
  8. Whatda - Keep me in mind - I have recently been having problems with mine (probably due to my hitting a tree with it!). Thanks, Bill
  9. A month or so ago I pulled into a campsite in the NFS campground - Baker's Hole - just north of West Yellowstone, Montana. Just after I got set up the couple that was camped next door excitedly came over to tell me that my Oliver was only the third one that they had ever seen. During a tour of the interior I asked them where did they see to first two Olivers. Then they told me their story about those Olivers being black and red and this very nice man was showing them in Quartzsite, AZ! Bill
  10. For the most part these types of things in an RV are not really difficult to fix. They just take time to figure out what is wrong and then a little more time to actually fix it. You did all the right things - realized you didn't know what was wrong, asked for help, got a plan of attack aimed at finding the real problem and then executed that plan. Nice job! Bill
  11. You can call Redneck Trailer Supply at 1-877-9Redneck, give them your axle number and they can give you the part numbers. Redneck is the parts supplier to Oliver. Shortly after I got my camper I did this and while the parts they shipped me are made in China, they are in nicely sealed blister packaging which is very convenient to carry as a spare. I'd also be willing to bet that if you went back into that second local store where you got your seals they could tell you these numbers as long as you supplied them with the axle info. Bill
  12. This is the charge controller that is on my 25 watt solar panel: https://www.ramsond.com/shld-8/ And a 7 pin pigtail like this is available in many RV shops, WalMart and here: https://www.amazon.com/NEW-SUN-Trailer-Connector-Socket/dp/B0776VRGF5/ref=sr_1_6?crid=3NPAUKAVDDK0G&keywords=7+pin+rv+connector&qid=1567636307&s=gateway&sprefix=7+pin+rv+%2Caps%2C172&sr=8-6 And, there are many sources of 25 watt solar panels like this one: https://www.amazon.com/Watts-Monocrystalline-Newpowa-Module-Marine/dp/B01M9B6RQI/ref=sr_1_3?crid=12CG071XVKAB4&keywords=25+watt+solar+panel&qid=1567636359&s=gateway&sprefix=25+watt+solar+panel%2Caps%2C170&sr=8-3 Finally, here is the 7 pin wiring diagram:
  13. Darn it! Perhaps a call to Sales - they might still have a record.
  14. Charliep - Have you looked on your "build sheet" or delivery paperwork? With mine the serial numbers and or model numbers were listed there. Bill
  15. Here's what it looks like in the meantime: Note that it is just a regular 25 watt panel with built in controller mounted on an old tripod with additional support legs off the front ( to get the angle of the panel adjusted better for the angle of the Winter sun) and the positive/negative wires from the panel wired into the 7 pin trailer connector. The yellow pieces of rope at the bottom of the legs are used along with 12 inch nails to secure the panel to the ground.
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