Trainman 0 Posted September 3, 2019 We just did our second camping outing (worked fine on the first camping trip and at delivery day) and now the water heater will not work on LP gas, but works just fine on electric. I did first check the fuse panel and that fuse is good, then I went to the water heater switch and the power is going thru the switch ok, that is the on an off power is flowing correctly thru the switch when turned on and off, but the red light does not come on as it should on startup. I went outside to listen for the clicking sound, but none. There is no gas smell, no nothing. I'm now wondering if the control module is bad, I do not see any reset button for it, but only see the reset for the electric on the water heater outside. Our water heater is the standard water heater not the instant one, so if anyone has any ideas about this let me know, thanks, trainman trainman Elite II, Twin Bed, Hull #489, 2019 RAM 1500, 5.7 Hemi, 4X4, Crew Cab, 5'7" bed, Towing Package, 3.92 Gears. Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
bugeyedriver 0 Posted September 3, 2019 Have you positively confirmed you have gas pressure? Can you light the stove? Does switching tanks have any effect? If you have a three way refrigerator and disconnect the shore power, does it go to gas, or DC? If it goes to DC you have no propane. Try flipping the switch for the heater a couple of times to "wake it up". Pete & "Bosker". TV - '18 F150 Super-cab Fx4; RV - "The Wonder Egg"; '08 Elite, Hull Number 014. Travel blog of 1st 10 years' wanderings - http://www.peteandthewonderegg.blogspot.com Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
Landrover 0 Posted September 3, 2019 Trainman Another fine thing that happen to me along with everything else. I had your same problem. Under the bed area where the water heater is you should see a small grey box that is you’re circuited board. Easy to take out. Service told me to look for a Burn mark on the board common problem. My board didn’t have a burn mark. I followed the wiring from the heater about 6-8in in the harness the wires will have crimped connections. I believe it was the red wire was pulled out of the crimp, reconnected and the water heater worked fine. Good luck and if this is the problem let service know. Thanks I have hull #484 Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
SeaDawg 1 Posted September 3, 2019 We haven't had the traditional water heater for a long time, but I remember ours had a switch outside to change from gas to electric. It wasn't automatic. But our water heater was a 2008 model... Just a thought. 2008 Ram 1500 4 × 4 2008 Oliver Elite, Hull #12 Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
Trainman 0 Posted September 3, 2019 I've done all those things that everyone has mentioned, I would now bet it's the module that's gone bad. trainman Elite II, Twin Bed, Hull #489, 2019 RAM 1500, 5.7 Hemi, 4X4, Crew Cab, 5'7" bed, Towing Package, 3.92 Gears. Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
Renegade 0 Posted September 3, 2019 Trainman, My concern was similar but may not be a good match. The first night following our pickup, July 18th, we had the same concern. In our case we were able to return the next day to Oliver. As it turned out there was a part not properly connected under the starboard berth. They quickly discovered the bad connection and the problem was solved. We have been on the road since pickup and admittedly we have only used the propane once or twice, but it worked. I would like to think my situation may be helpful, but I can see it may not. Take care, John Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
Guest Guest Posted September 3, 2019 I’ve done all those things that everyone has mentioned, I would now bet it’s the module that’s gone bad. trainman If you checked everything and believe it's the igniter board, might I suggest: 1. DO NOT use the Made in China garbage as a replacement. This is what OTT Service will most likely send you. Known issue and the WH manufacturer is aware and un-responsive to failures. Q3 in the photo is the failed component. The replacement boards from the OEM are a hit or miss affair. Trust me, I've researched this. It appears you are under warranty for the WH so of course it's your call, but replacing bad parts with bad parts, is simply bad. ;-)...as an alternative >>>> 2. Dinosaur Electronics is a made in the USA supplier for boards; produced by a bunch of smart folks. They don't sell direct. I purchased through Panther RV but there are several re-sellers online. Other than being hard to access through a small portal/hatch, the tasking is a simple component to replace. Kill the electrons and R&R the offending board. Re-energize the system and watch the diagnostics take over. My other RV (Hallmark Camper) igniter board failed 1 day out of warranty and of course when we were camping and wanting some hot water for showers. Replaced the board (simple plug and play) and all is good to go. You will need to have the numbers on the board, so remove it and have it in hand when checking the linked chart below and looking for a replacement. If you can operate a socket wrench, screw driver, open/close circuit breakers and plug in a toaster, you can fix this yourself. Cost me approx. $100 for a new board and a nice cover allowing you to see the diagnostics lights. Something the OEM junk board does not have. I posted my find and fix on the site; can't find it. As well, John Davies has a thread buried somewhere on this site, discussing his OTT board failure. With the board removed, you'll know and can see how it mounts (four stand off corner posts or direct) and what kind of electrical hook-up (center post or side electrical connector). These will all be evident with the board in hand. You can also get a new standard opaque cover or order one with a clear window which allows you to see the red/green lights during operation. Mark Replacement igniter boards One online source-Panther RV Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
John E Davies 0 Posted September 4, 2019 I think it is probably a bad board.... welcome to the newly founded Suburban Bad Board Club. https://olivertraveltrailers.com/topic/suburban-hot-water-heater-failed-a-dealer-repair-story-and-lesson/ John Davies Spokane WA "Mouse": 2017 Legacy Elite II NARV (Not An RV) Two Beds, Hull Number 218, See my HOW TO threads: https://olivertraveltrailers.com/topic/john-e-davies-how-to-threads-and-tech-articles-links/ Tow Vehicle: 2013 Land Cruiser 200, 33" LT tires, airbags. Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
jwalmsleyk 1 Posted September 4, 2019 Hi Trainman, Have you spoken with the Service Department? They can help you with any issues you are having. You can reach them at: 1-866-205-2621 3 Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
Trainman 0 Posted September 6, 2019 Thanks Jason, I did talk with Jason in the service dept. and he is sending me a new module for the water heater. trainman 2 Elite II, Twin Bed, Hull #489, 2019 RAM 1500, 5.7 Hemi, 4X4, Crew Cab, 5'7" bed, Towing Package, 3.92 Gears. Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
Trainman 0 Posted September 12, 2019 The new controller did not correct the problem with the water heater. Since we decided we needed to make to fall trip to Arkansas and Tennessee we just spoke with Jason at Oliver service and he said it was ok to come by at our convenience and he could take care of the water heater problem. I know I could just take it to a local dealer in the DFW area, but they are booked solid for sometime and I personally don't want a dealer not familiar with an Oliver to work on our trailer, especially when I think it is an electrical problem, but that's just my guess, not really sure. I thought I would possibly wait till the rally next year, but since we need the gas for boondocking and we need a fall road trip, what the heck, let's go. trainman Elite II, Twin Bed, Hull #489, 2019 RAM 1500, 5.7 Hemi, 4X4, Crew Cab, 5'7" bed, Towing Package, 3.92 Gears. Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
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